Plated Bullets and Revolvers

[glocksmith]

I'm sort of a newbie to revolvers, but perhaps someone else here is also new and can learn from my experience. I've owned and used wheelguns for a couple years now, but still am learning all the fine points. Just in the past week I've experienced a couple of problems - both times involving rounds loaded with Power Bond plated bullets. In the first instance, I was dumping a speedloader of mixed ammo into my 586...and by freak chance the lone Power Bond bullet in the speedloader lined up with the one and only chamber it did not fit correctly into. I had to force it in...and I thought "Naaa, I'm not going to fire this one". So I slapped the ejector rod and all the rounds fell clean out...except for the Power Bond. I almost ended up with a case-under-extractor in doing so. (Interestingly, the Power Bond fit OK into the other five chambers) The incident got me thinking. Had this occurred during an emergency scenario, it could have proved fatal. From now on, I will individually test each carry round in each of the six chambers before venturing out. How many of you do this already? I'd never even though of it before last week.

Next problem. I was firing my brand new 627 snubbie for the first time - which is quite snappy when using full power rounds - and I finally learned that bullets "pulling crimp" or "jumping crimp" are indeed a reality. Again, it was a single Power Bond bullet which locked up the revolver. I now see S&W's counterclockwise cylinder rotation as a design flaw...as it results in any bullets pulling crimp to be on the wrong side of the frame...which means you can't open the cylinder/crane at all. Luckily the Power Bonds are flat nosed - so all I had to do was get a mallet and screwdriver to tap the bullet down enough to be able to swing out the cylinder. Those are also items I wouldn't have handy in a SD scenario.

Back to the Power Bonds. Why have I had nothing but bad luck with these bullets, when all others - cast, JHP's - work fine? The Power Bonds gave me trouble at the reloading bench as well. I noticed ripples in my brass cases as soon as I began loading them...whereas my other bullets all loaded (and shot) just fine. I guess the simple solution is don't use them, but I'm still curious if anyone else has had these problems.

[Whirlwind06]

I have not ran into this problem with factory SD ammo.

Have you checked the plated bullets to see if they are over-sized? In my experience rippling the brass means I need to bell the brass a bit more. A good crimp should help with the crimp jump. I use the Lee FCD die on all of my reloads, I know a lot of folks says it's not needed but it works for me. With my .357 I give it a pretty good crimp.

It sounds like your 586 cylinders could use reaming (I think that the correct term)
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[dl1911]

Have never used Power Bond but have had no problems with Berry's, Ranier or xTreme plated bullets in many calibers, including .38Spl. Have the Lee FCD but have never used it on 38s. I case check all my reloads and if something doesn't pass the check, I run it through the FCD which usually fixes the problem. The others are plunk tested in the barrel and I'll only shoot it if they pass that test and with that gun. The rest get turned in and destroyed. I agree with the other post on measuring the bullets or at least putting them through a case check.

[glocksmith]

Thanks guys. Yeah, I did mic them and they were .3575....which AFAIK at a mere .0005 oversize should still be useable. Normally, though, I try to run my bullets exact bore diameter = .357, and I run my cast bullets through a sizing die - even if loading manuals list .358. I think I'll just use the Power Bonds for plinking ammo in my 1892 Rossi. I've got an old Lyman 35893 mould and my revolver seems to love those - if it ain't broke don't fix it.

[Brian D.]

Here's another (modern, double action) revolver habit worth developing: After loading up and closing the action, pull the hammer back enough to ensure the cylinder turns freely. Yes, utilize safe direction and all that good stuff. But you want to find out about a high prime or some other issue binding the rotation, before a match, or event much more important than that.

[Morne]

I have not ran into this problem with factory SD ammo.

Have you checked the plated bullets to see if they are over-sized? In my experience rippling the brass means I need to bell the brass a bit more. A good crimp should help with the crimp jump. I use the Lee FCD die on all of my reloads, I know a lot of folks says it's not needed but it works for me. With my .357 I give it a pretty good crimp.

All of this.

First, my SD ammo is factory. Yeah, I load a lot of .38/.357 and could probably roll my own that's as good as factory. Not going to risk it, though. I would encourage you to dedicate a box of factory ammo to carry status and just use your hand loads as inexpensive practice (reloading really shines for reducing the practice cost of .357 magnums).

Second, not all plated bullets are created equal. X-Treme is my brand of choice. They size after plating which helps. Sounds like your bullets were only sized before plating.

Third, CRIMP them suckers!