Brian D. wrote:It is time well spent if learning the innards of guns used for carry, competition etc. is of interest to someone. Through the years I've done the work you're describing on my own single and double action revolvers, as well as most semi auto handgun designs, at various stages. Later I learned enough about the long guns in my life to have at least a fighting chance of fixing them myself. After a while it seemed like no gun related problem I'd see firsthand were completely beyond understanding at least in part. Wouldn't exactly say I have a mechanically-oriented brain, either, but could at least take firearms apart slowly so as to get the hang of how they worked, and had to be reassembled afterwards.
Agreed. The benefit of doing this as well from a mechanical standpoint is less friction for the hammer mechanism. Less friction in the hammer/trigger mechanism results in a smoother and lighter pull for the same hammer spring weight, and less friction on the hammer/strut assembly after being released allows for a harder (albeit slightly) primer stroke for the same spring weight. In theory this should be more tolerant of crud in the firing pin channel/hammer recess of the frame, and allow for a more tolerant spring change.
The main areas to focus on for the sig with the least amount of messing it up, in my opinion, is the hammer strut. The two curved faces at the top should be polished with a liquid/soft paste polish applied via q tip or felt, at lowish speeds to avoid altering geometries. Stop when it's smooth - do NOT try to get it looking all the same, as low spots won't do anything against your trigger smoothness but can hold a bit extra lube. After that, taking the leg of the strut and breaking the corners, rounding, and smoothing out all scratches and giving a mirror finish, and a mirror finish on the spring (inside and out) will eliminate a lot of 'crunching' and 'stacking' in the double action pull. A little can be had from the hammer/sear interface, but if you're not 100% positive on what you're doing, and don't have spare parts on hand, don't risk messing it up.
Yesterday I fired 96 rounds out of the P226, with a dot torture, 2 inch dots, and a b-8 repair center. Didn't have a tape measure, so I paced it out (1 step = about 2.5 feet). I paced to 5 yards for dot torture, 5/10/15 for 2 inch dots, and 25 yards for the B8. Outside temperature was about 25 degrees and dropping, sun was setting to my 10 o'clock. Fingers were almost numb.
I 100% failed the weak hand only part of dot torture, and dropped 2 shots otherwise. 2 inch dots I called my fliers as they occurred, always a dip, never a windage problem. I'm coming from Beretta's with longer/smoother pulls, so this will take some work on my part. On the B8 I had 7 out of 10 on paper, 6/10 in scoring rings. I didn't bother scoring them, and likely won't until I get 10/10 on paper.
I'll have a bit of a curve as I adapt to the Sig, and I'm sure the scores will get better and drills improve a lot more with warmer weather. But either way, dry fire continues tonight with weak hand only accuracy work. Tomorrow will be reload components, with draw as well.
I didn't log initial rounds when I got the pistol, but I'm sure I shot somewhere in the neighborhood of 120 when I first got it, and put another 200 through it to get to yesterday, so I'm going to estimate 296 rounds fired, previous unknown. 1 failure to go into battery, semi-wadcutter without enough crimp (was spec'd for the now-gone beretta - ammo problem not gun problem)
1987 W. German P226
2016 to date - 296 rounds fired
0 parts breakages
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