In previous posts we got the action open on a S&W revolver.
Now, we'll dive into the action itself.
Remove the strain screw we loosened earlier.
Then remove the main spring by unhooking it from the hammer stirrup.
Note that the end of the spring is made to fit into a shaped notch in the bottom of the lower strap.
The notch in the spring must go back in the frame notch or the gun won't work right when reassembled.
Now comes the part of the job that everybody fears- removing the rebound slide.
There is a fairly stiff coil spring inside the rebound block.
If you are not careful it will KA-SPROING!! somewhere and never be seen again.
It's really not that bad. Honestly.
Put the action of the gun in a plastic bag and remove the rebound slide if it worries you.
There's a fairly simple tool that is sold to deal with this spring and the slide block itself.
However it's a single-tasker and I can't see spending the cash for it.
A careful touch with a stiff screwdriver compresses the spring and lets the slide block come out without putting one's eye out.
Here's the rebound spring. It's stiff, but it can be worked with.
On the top of the rebound slide block there's a teeny-tiny pin that the hammer block's lower slot will rest over.
On some guns this pin is not press fit, it just slips in, and it can be lost.
If it falls out on the carpet you WILL spend time looking for it with a magnet. Be careful!
The hammer can now be removed by partially cocking it (Have to hold the bolt/cylinder release forward first) and wiggling it out.
Here's the hammer assembly. You can see the main spring stirrup (the little swinging T-bar thingy) and the double action sear.
That's the flat, spring loaded piece in the face of the hammer.
The small flipper-looking thing attached to the trigger is the Hand.
It is what turns the cylinder when the revolver is cocked or fired.
It attaches to the trigger with two pins and a torsion spring inside the trigger itself.
The trigger & hand assembly can be worked out of the frame at this time. Some jiggling is expected.
You can remove the hand from the trigger, but if you do, you will need to make sure the pins are properly engaged in the torsion spring in the trigger.
The action parts look like stainless steel. In reality they are hard-chromed. Stainless steel tends to gall and when it rubs on itself, even more so.
To avoid this, S&W hard-chromed the hammer & trigger. It's why the color does not match the stainless, it looks dull.
Here's a shot of the sear surfaces on the hammer and trigger.
It is really tempting to take a diamond stone to these notches and edges to smooth them out.
Unless you have a stoning jig I would not advise it.
The angles are cut at the factory and then surface hardened.
If you don't have a jig to hold the angle right you can actually ruin the engagement by breaking the sharp angles or making it wavy.
Since the surface hardening is only a few thousandths thick, any over aggressive stoning (Like to repair a sloppy angle you cut) will break through the hard layer and into the soft layer.
That ruins the sear surfaces and causes premature wear.
You can also cut away too much and wind up with a gun that the hammer pushes off the sear when you smack the cocked hammer with your hand.
This is very dangerous.
The only repair is to replace the hammer & trigger assemblies. They don't make these bar-stock forged hammers & triggers anymore.
Nowadays they are MIM parts. They don't interchange the same way.
My advice- unless you are a skilled S&W gunsmith with the tools and know-how, don't muck with the hammer & trigger except for some light stoning of the sides if you see any roughness.
This is the cylinder stop. It is what holds the cylinder at a particular position.
It has a small spring that fits into the frame to pre-load it.
It's another of those things that you can lose if you are not careful.
You just use a small dental pick to rotate the stop down under the frame, then pop it up and out of the frame, taking care not to lose the spring.
Here's the cylinder stop and the spring.
Now we remove the bolt assembly.
Unscrew the screw in the center of the cylinder release and pop off the cylinder release.
Turn the frame back over and work the bolt assembly out of the frame.
Warning! There's a tiny rod and spring in the back end of the bolt. Don't lose them either!
Here's the rod and the spring from the bolt.
There's the entire gun, taken apart as far as is practical with hand tools.
If you want to remove the rear sight, remove the screws holding it to the top strap.
The barrel can be removed by driving out the pin with a cup punch and then unscrewing it with a barrel vise and an action wrench.
That's above the level of disasembly I think most of us are going to be comfortable with. Really, that's a gunsmith job.
If you mess up working on the barrel it's easy to ruin the frame.
They don't make "K" frames anymore so the gun would be junk.
There's no reason to remove the barrel even to do the most thorough cleaning I can imagine.
The frame pins can be pressed out but- that's a gunsmith job to avoid messing up the frame.
I also did not remove the trigger stop and screw.
That was because on this revolver, it was set the way Evan likes it and he didn't want to mess around with it.
If you want, it's just removing that tiny screw and pulling out the stop.
So there you have it, a Smith & Wesson "K"-frame torn to bits.
Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.
Stay tuned, I'll be back with more.