Rebluing?
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Rebluing?
I realize the topic was touched upon in an earlier topic, but I had some more thoughts about this.
While I'm more concerned about the dependability and accuracy of what I carry, I also sometimes wonder about that day when I might want to refinish some of mine back to looking... well... newer. By this, I mean I might consider rebluing a few.
I'm curious how many people (if much of anyone) have had this done.
Other than the depreciation it can cause in some cases, are there any negatives to doing so? The few I've handled that have had it done already were not-so-great shape, so I have no idea if the process has any affect on the engraving on the metals or otherwise.
In addition, I've also seen a few different items at auctions, where I've thought to myself, "This would probably make a great range piece, but it really looks bad with all the rust, pits, ect. - but that action looks so clean..."
While I'm more concerned about the dependability and accuracy of what I carry, I also sometimes wonder about that day when I might want to refinish some of mine back to looking... well... newer. By this, I mean I might consider rebluing a few.
I'm curious how many people (if much of anyone) have had this done.
Other than the depreciation it can cause in some cases, are there any negatives to doing so? The few I've handled that have had it done already were not-so-great shape, so I have no idea if the process has any affect on the engraving on the metals or otherwise.
In addition, I've also seen a few different items at auctions, where I've thought to myself, "This would probably make a great range piece, but it really looks bad with all the rust, pits, ect. - but that action looks so clean..."
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Re: Rebluing?
For guns with pitting I have found bead blasting to be the best at covering up those pits....or at least making them less noticeable. After blueing it results in a matte finish.rhwiley wrote:I realize the topic was touched upon in an earlier topic, but I had some more thoughts about this.
While I'm more concerned about the dependability and accuracy of what I carry, I also sometimes wonder about that day when I might want to refinish some of mine back to looking... well... newer. By this, I mean I might consider rebluing a few.
I'm curious how many people (if much of anyone) have had this done.
Other than the depreciation it can cause in some cases, are there any negatives to doing so? The few I've handled that have had it done already were not-so-great shape, so I have no idea if the process has any affect on the engraving on the metals or otherwise.
In addition, I've also seen a few different items at auctions, where I've thought to myself, "This would probably make a great range piece, but it really looks bad with all the rust, pits, ect. - but that action looks so clean..."
A bead blast finish holds oil better too. And matte is not shiney....a good thing I think.
Playground sand like you get at wally world works great. A blast gun is cheap. I do recommend a good air compressor.
After blasting cold blue is adequate. If you wanna spend the cash, have it hot blued. I think some of the premium cold blues are comparable to hot blues these days. I have used blue wonder's product and it results in a nice looking finish. I can't comment on durability, because I haven't used it long enough. They claim durability is comparable to hot blues.
I have also seen a firearm finished with engine paint after it was blasted. It turned out really well.
If you have a firearm that just needs a touch up the blue wonder is supposed to blend in with the existing blueing well. I haven't tried it for that yet, but I am inclined to think it would work well.
The key to success with any of this stuff is to get the metal squeaky clean. It cannot have any oil or solvent on it at all. Brownells makes a great product for this.
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I have done cold bluing on many things over the years with mixed results.Preparation is the key to any good finish job, and you will find that different steel alloys will take blue better than others. As P4G said the part you are bluing must be completely free from oil and contaminates. Also warming the part seems to help,not hot just warm to the touch.
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My experiences with cold bluing is that I will most likely never do it again! Brownell's has some interesting metal treatments that you do in the oven and it looks good on paper, I have not tried them but may as I have a spot on an 870 were marsh mud ate the blue off a little section of barrel. A floating gun case traps more moisture than you can imagine! My $.02 FWIW
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I thought I've seen some interesting things (such as sand wearing down internal workings and such)... But Marsh mud eating the blue? Was it that corrosive or something? Not that I doubt you - but I just didn't know it'd do that.... very interesting...Willy P wrote:I have not tried them but may as I have a spot on an 870 were marsh mud ate the blue off a little section of barrel.
Also, please pass along how well it works if you do the cold blue. Thanks!
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Cold blueing will certainly turn out a little better if the metal is warmed up before application. Sort of "opens the poors" if you will, and allows the blueing salts to penetrate a little deeper into the metal, for a longer lasting finish. Touch up blueing tends to wear off again and need "touched up" sooner than a hot blue would wear off.
As far as the effect on engravings and such is concerned. The wear most people associate with reblueing comes from the buffing and polishing done after a hot blue application. The desire for a deep lustrious finish has to be weighed against the effect it will have on all stampings, engravings, etc.
Take all the blueing off, bead blast it, then drop it in the parko tank! I've refinished some real monsters and ended up with a presentable firearm that way.
As far as the effect on engravings and such is concerned. The wear most people associate with reblueing comes from the buffing and polishing done after a hot blue application. The desire for a deep lustrious finish has to be weighed against the effect it will have on all stampings, engravings, etc.
Take all the blueing off, bead blast it, then drop it in the parko tank! I've refinished some real monsters and ended up with a presentable firearm that way.
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I'm gonna take a stab at this one.Willy P wrote:My experiences with cold bluing is that I will most likely never do it again! Brownell's has some interesting metal treatments that you do in the oven and it looks good on paper, I have not tried them but may as I have a spot on an 870 were marsh mud ate the blue off a little section of barrel. A floating gun case traps more moisture than you can imagine! My $.02 FWIW
Marsh mud is probably very acidic due to a high organic content. It would be similar to forest loam except with the higher moisture content and lower ph it prolly is hard on a gun finish.
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Thanks for the explanation. I've never had any marsh mud on anything I've carried. I'll just need to be careful not to get any on my Mossberg next time I go deer hunting.Petrofergov wrote:I'm gonna take a stab at this one.
Marsh mud is probably very acidic due to a high organic content. It would be similar to forest loam except with the higher moisture content and lower ph it prolly is hard on a gun finish.
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That black foul smelling muck it hard on things in general. I agree it has to have a high acid level to it. The barrel being eaten was really my fault. I put the gun in a floating case and left it in the truck overnight as I was headed back out in several hours to do it all over again and it was a "cheap" 870 supermag I was/am not all that worried about. Had I known the muck was on it I would have given it a hit of WD40 and a wiping off. The spray on coatings that Brownells has would, I think, have not been effected. If you look at the ParaKote guns that Para Ord. offers you will see the sort of coating it is.