???Two Hand Reloading Questions???

To learn and introduce new loaders. Tips and tricks from old timers.

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mauser
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Post by mauser »

The only thing I ever used IMR4198 for is 7.62x39.
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Post by willbird »

that's a good idea everyone could use.

I hate to ask, but what happend to the 45/70, and what kind of gun? That had to hurt (or worse).
As I recall it was a Pedersoli Sharps, and it blew it to bits..... #7 is faster than 2400......and re7 is sort of a "magic" powder in the big bore straight cases that gives amazing velocity at relatively low pressures.

I was completely wrong on the 4198 in 5.56/223 as well, I don;t have one of those little things (223) and I just looked up data on Hogdon only to see....4198.....so sorry to say that it was too fast.

It actually looks like a very strong performer with 40 grain bullets in the 223, and you use 2o% less of it charge weight to get the roughly same velocity as say Varget or BLC2.

Bill
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Post by Dr. Winston »

For 9mm I use Accurate #7 powder. Why? Because of the loads I am loading. You CAN'T use one powder for everything you load! I tried to find one powder I could use to load 9mm and .223 but the various bullet weights and configurations just don't crossover.
The Accurate #7 allows me to load both 115 grain (target loads) as well as my 124 grain (self defense loads). I wish it was as easy as choosing a 'favorite' powder and going from there, but choosing the wrong powder could be putting you on the road to disaster.

Is Accurate, the only powder that will bridge both rounds? No!
Check out you charts and choose carefully!
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Post by mreising »

Dr. Winston wrote:For 9mm I use Accurate #7 powder. Why? Because of the loads I am loading. You CAN'T use one powder for everything you load! I tried to find one powder I could use to load 9mm and .223 but the various bullet weights and configurations just don't crossover.
The Accurate #7 allows me to load both 115 grain (target loads) as well as my 124 grain (self defense loads). I wish it was as easy as choosing a 'favorite' powder and going from there, but choosing the wrong powder could be putting you on the road to disaster.

Is Accurate, the only powder that will bridge both rounds? No!
Check out you charts and choose carefully!
And, if I remember correctly, Accurate #7 is fairly bulky powder, so you probably can't double charge a 9mm case.
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Dr. Winston
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Post by Dr. Winston »

Mauser;

Just out of curiosity, where did you get this information?
H335 is the original NATO powder for 5.56
I was going to tear one apart and start doing the dangerous quest of trying to find which powder they used. Maybe you've saved me from an evening of misery?
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Post by dr-exmedic »

I was a bit confused when I read the title of this thread--it came into my mind as a thread about using two hands to reload, and I was trying to figure out exactly how you would hold the gun.... I've gotta quit reading this board when I'm tired. :D
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Post by Jake »

I've gotta quit reading this board when I'm tired.
:shock: If I did that, I'd rarely be here...
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Post by mauser »

Dr. Winston wrote:Mauser;

Just out of curiosity, where did you get this information?
H335 is the original NATO powder for 5.56
I was going to tear one apart and start doing the dangerous quest of trying to find which powder they used. Maybe you've saved me from an evening of misery?
Not sure where I first heard that but it is on Hodgdon's website:

H335™ originated as a military powder, used for the 5.56 NATO, or 223 Remington as handloaders know it. Obviously, it sees endless use in the 222 Remington, 223 Remington and other small cartridges. In particular, prairie dog shooters will find this a favorite, as J.B. Hodgdon has for years! Available in 1 lb. & 8 lb. containers.

Other commercial that began as military:
IMR4895 - .30-06
BLC(2) - 7.62 Nato (.308)
IMR4350 - .30-40 Krag
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Post by thorn »

willbird wrote:I store the FAST powder on a seperate shelf from the slower rifle type powders...........I bet more than 1 person has confused 4198 with 4831...they both have 4's, 8's and 1's
That's a very good idea. One can also do additional things like add a small label to the bottle itself, like "FAST / PISTOL" and "SLOW / RIFLE" so that you aren't just reading the digit names.

I've also seen a few pics in which people write the powder name on paper, and rubber-band it around the powder hopper they pour it in... thus no forgetting which powder is in there.

thorn
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Post by Jake »

Tip #1

Always put powder back in the jug/bottle when done.

Don't leave it in the Powder Measurer.
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Post by Dr. Winston »

Mauser;

Thanks for the info! Much appreciated.

Tip #2 - Never have more than one type of powder located on your bench at one time! "A dirty bench can lead to finger less!"
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Post by willbird »

Yup "one powder on the bench" is a very good rule.

The original powder the 5.56/M16 was DESIGNED to work with was an IMR powder. There is an excellent article in Small Arms Review march issue, it is an interview with a man was was a major part of the design team for the M16 rifle, and many others, it is a 3 part series, march, april, and may will be the 3 issues.


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Post by BandanaMan »

Thanks to all who posted here :!:

There are is a wealth of safety tips and load information to select from :!:

I really appreciate the information you all posted......I have made the decision to load my 5.56mm with IMR 4320, and all of my pistol and revolver reloads with Bullseye.

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Post by Sasquatch.45 »

thorn wrote:
willbird wrote:I store the FAST powder on a seperate shelf from the slower rifle type powders...........I bet more than 1 person has confused 4198 with 4831...they both have 4's, 8's and 1's
That's a very good idea. One can also do additional things like add a small label to the bottle itself, like "FAST / PISTOL" and "SLOW / RIFLE" so that you aren't just reading the digit names.

I've also seen a few pics in which people write the powder name on paper, and rubber-band it around the powder hopper they pour it in... thus no forgetting which powder is in there.

thorn
I always print powder identification, and charge weight information on the back of a post-it note, with a felt tip pen, and place it in the powder hopper. That way, even if I am away from the bench for weeks (or months )at a time, I know at a glance what is going to come out of the hopper.
I also keep a notebook of what combination of weights and components that I use for different lots, and make notations of performance issues.
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Post by Jake »

I always print powder identification, and charge weight information on the back of a post-it note, with a felt tip pen, and place it in the powder hopper. That way, even if I am away from the bench for weeks (or months )at a time, I know at a glance what is going to come out of the hopper.
You could empty the hopper after each session.

I didn't like to at first, but it only takes a moment.
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