Removing J-Frame lock

[Atilla]

Finally got the 642 to the range today. All went well, but I was also trying out a Taurus 605, which had a much smoother trigger. Fired 158g std 38s, 125g +P, and some 125g magnums out of the 605. Between bifocals and fixed unicolor sights, the CT laser on the 605 was a tremendous aid. I may have to spring for one for the j-frame. I am confident either revolver be as accurate and reliable as I am, so which one will be my EDC depends more on the weather. I am ordering a replacement locking flag should I ever sell the 642 ($4.12). My old 642 which is still with an ex girlfriend did not have the lock. Live and learn. This was the first time I opened up a revolver, makes a pistol look simple. Update: S&W is sending me out a new 'lock arm E' gratis . The person I talked to said all revolvers still have the internal lock, in 2009 they did sell a group of non-IL Centennials using frames they had in storage.

[AlanM]

Just a thought.
How about putting a drop of Locktite on the lock mechanism so it can't be turned?
Pun intended.

[Atilla]

Just a thought.
How about putting a drop of Locktite on the lock mechanism so it can't be turned?
Pun intended.

The locktite/superglue fix was mentioned in the S&W forums. So was removing "locking arm E". I am fine with the nub being ground off and a (free) replacement from S&W should I ever want to sell it ( or move to Maryland ).

[Mr. Glock]

Some new jframes are being made (optional) with out the lock IIRC.

As far as I know, that's only the Model 40 j-frame lemonsqueezer...which has a grip safety. There was a run of 642s without locks, but word was it was just old, misplaced frames being used up.

Where's old Luke...he loves the OBLs on S&Ws?

[weakhand luke]

Lock and load...

Gun mutilation is a sickness.