Wow....nice work.

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Petrovich
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Wow....nice work.

Post by Petrovich »

If you ever need some work done to a 1911 give the Springfield Armory custom shop some thought.

I messed up the front sight on my milspec SA 1911. I sent it to them for a new, dovetailed front sight.

I got the thing back today. Not only is the front sight installed beautifully (the base even matches the contour of the slide), but they threw in some extras.

They either reparkerized the slide, or did an excellent job of touch up. My guess is they just dunked the whole think in the vat. All the worn spots such as where the slide engages the rails and the locking lug recesses...the bolt face are all refinished. The slide looks brand new. It shipped back in a plastic pistol case. I'm impressed.

Cost me 50 bucks.
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Post by Petrovich »

It just occurred to me. I have another old milspec (not a relic) 1911 that could stand to be refinished. If I stripped it down, and removed the blueing, I bet they'd refinish the slide and the frame. Hmmmmmmmmmm

I was thinking about doing it myself, but If I can get a job like that for a reasonable fee I'd go for it.

Heck a decent parkerizing kit costs a fortune.
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AlanM
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Post by AlanM »

Actually this product has gotten very good reviews
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ ... NG+LACQUER

Good luck
Al McClure
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AlanM
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Post by AlanM »

Here's even a better one. Albeit more expensive, but less than $30 for several handguns.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ ... GUN+FINISH

Al McClure
Petrovich
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Post by Petrovich »

AlanM wrote:Here's even a better one. Albeit more expensive, but less than $30 for several handguns.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ ... GUN+FINISH

Al McClure
I have tried that product/very similar one on a couple of mauser receivers. It works very well.

Cold blue has also advanced. It never enjoyed much reputation in the past. Personally I've used cold blue for years as a touch up and I have no complaints. It's better now, though. I am going to try Blue Wonder's product soon.

A surprisingly good finish, that is inexpensive, is block paint. Yeah, I'm serious. A friend of mine bead blasted an old turk mauser and applied black block epoxy. It turned out a very nice, matte finish, that was extremely attractive and professional looking. One can imagine that anything designed to withstand the temperatures, and hodgepodge of hydrocarbons, solvents and other chemicals produced by an internal combustion engine, must be some durable stuff.
haspelbein
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Post by haspelbein »

I used Cold Blue on my Turkish Mauser. I never even thought about something like block paint.

The Cold Blue worked nicely, and it looks rather nice with the freshly polished bolt. Now, if I could do anything for the accuracy of that thing. :roll:
"A fear of weapons is a sign of retarded sexual and emotional maturity." Sigmund Freud, "General Introduction to Psychoanalysis"
Petrovich
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Post by Petrovich »

haspelbein wrote:I used Cold Blue on my Turkish Mauser. I never even thought about something like block paint.

The Cold Blue worked nicely, and it looks rather nice with the freshly polished bolt. Now, if I could do anything for the accuracy of that thing. :roll:
The turk mauser's sights aren't even close to calibration at anything less than 150-200 yards and MORE. Then you have to ask yourself, who can hit anything at 200 yards with open sights?

I bit of understanding of the battle tactics back then helps. I'm no expert, but I know a little.

Individual marksmanship wasn't hitting your man. It was more along the line of putting your shot with that of all your comrades into an accurate volley.

Soldiers were taught to use their rifles more like an artillery piece than a precision shooting instrument.

A field officer would calculate the distance of the volley, and order his men to adjust their sights accordingly. Then they were ordered to fire. There was quite a bit of science and math involved. It was hardly haphazard. It was an effective tactic at the time.

Alas, all's not lost!! Save your best turk as a relic.

Strip the rest down to the receiver. They make GREAT rebarreling projects. The mauser bolt action is an excellent platform for a sporting rifle. I have a couple projects I am working on now. One in .243 and another in 22-250. I't a steep learning curve at first, and you need a lathe and a mill so it scares a lot of people off. I bought a smithy and I am still learning how to use the thing. Fortunately, cutting threads is the hardest thing I have to learn. I need to find someone now to teach me how to cut a dovetail so I can put new sights on some of my old commie pistols. I paid for my first two projects as far as the machine work is concerned. Now I'm gearing up to do that myself.

Start cruising gun shows for old mausers. There have been a lot sold lately along with a lot of corrosive 8mm ammo. I figure we'll be seeing a BUNCH of mausers with ruined bores for sale CHEAP.
haspelbein
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Post by haspelbein »

Petrofergov wrote:
The turk mauser's sights aren't even close to calibration at anything less than 150-200 yards and MORE. Then you have to ask yourself, who can hit anything at 200 yards with open sights?

I bit of understanding of the battle tactics back then helps. I'm no expert, but I know a little.

Individual marksmanship wasn't hitting your man. It was more along the line of putting your shot with that of all your comrades into an accurate volley.

Soldiers were taught to use their rifles more like an artillery piece than a precision shooting instrument.

A field officer would calculate the distance of the volley, and order his men to adjust their sights accordingly. Then they were ordered to fire. There was quite a bit of science and math involved. It was hardly haphazard. It was an effective tactic at the time.
Oh believe me, I've been through that realization with my other Mauser, my Mosin-Nagants, my Enfield, my Schmidt-Rubin ... :lol:

The problem is that the rear sight base does not line up with the barrel at all. Even when shooting from a rest, that Mauser is all over the place. The rifling is strong and the muzzle is okay.

Maybe I'm spoiled from my other Mauser, which allows me to shoot 2'' to 3'' groups at 100 yards with a replacement front sight to adjust for elevation.
Alas, all's not lost!! Save your best turk as a relic.

Strip the rest down to the receiver. They make GREAT rebarreling projects. The mauser bolt action is an excellent platform for a sporting rifle. I have a couple projects I am working on now. One in .243 and another in 22-250. I't a steep learning curve at first, and you need a lathe and a mill so it scares a lot of people off. I bought a smithy and I am still learning how to use the thing. Fortunately, cutting threads is the hardest thing I have to learn. I need to find someone now to teach me how to cut a dovetail so I can put new sights on some of my old commie pistols. I paid for my first two projects as far as the machine work is concerned. Now I'm gearing up to do that myself.
Yes, this would be quite work intensive. The bolt would also need to be turned and the receiver tapped if I wanted to scope the rifle. The threads on the Turk are also non-standard, so you cannot simply take off-the-shelf threaded barrels for German Mausers. I don't even have near the equipment or experience for such a project. (Lathe, anyone?)

The problem is: The action of the Turk is not quite that nice. I'd rather base a custom project on something like a CZ V24 action.
Start cruising gun shows for old mausers. There have been a lot sold lately along with a lot of corrosive 8mm ammo. I figure we'll be seeing a BUNCH of mausers with ruined bores for sale CHEAP.


Yes, once I'm out of my 90-day waiting period, I will likely do so. :wink: I should probably also get my cruffler license.
"A fear of weapons is a sign of retarded sexual and emotional maturity." Sigmund Freud, "General Introduction to Psychoanalysis"
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Post by Petrovich »

haspelbein wrote:


Oh believe me, I've been through that realization with my other Mauser, my Mosin-Nagants, my Enfield, my Schmidt-Rubin ... :lol:

The problem is that the rear sight base does not line up with the barrel at all. Even when shooting from a rest, that Mauser is all over the place. The rifling is strong and the muzzle is okay.

Maybe I'm spoiled from my other Mauser, which allows me to shoot 2'' to 3'' groups at 100 yards with a replacement front sight to adjust for elevation.
Many consider the turk mausers to be 'crude' which, among mausers crude is still pretty decent.

Yes, the turks are a bit nonstandard. They are a large ring mauser with small ring threads......at least thats the best explanation that's been offered. In reality, there isn't a truly 'nominal' thread for a turk mauser as there is variation among individual specimens. That's actually a plus. The fella who rebarreled my two projects took a large ring barrel that was short chambered and cut it to fit my receivers precisely. Of course, the same thing could be done with a barrel blank with a lot more work.
The problem is: The action of the Turk is not quite that nice. I'd rather base a custom project on something like a CZ V24 action.
Don't shortchange the turks. Most of them started out in life as German manufactured Gewhers. They were shipped off to the ottoman empire by the thousands in the form of complete rifles, parts and equipment. VZ-24's are good too. They are actually czech made at a place called 'BRNO' (I can't think of the name right now).

Everybody has their favorite flavor of mauser. Most all the receivers make good rebarreling projects. The only one I was ever told to avoid were the chinese and I haven't even seen one of those.

Don't forget the intermediate length mausers. They are better suited to some calibers. These are the yugo flavored mausers...the 24/47's and the later manufactured M48's

Also worthy of note are the Czeska Zbrovaska (sp) 98/22's. They are still quite cheap wholesale and most have pitted barrels externally under the wood and barrel bands. I grabbed a '5 fer' deal for 300 bucks from century. These are begging for a rebarrelling job. I gotta get started or I'll never get done before I cross the big river.

Yes, once I'm out of my 90-day waiting period, I will likely do so. :wink: I should probably also get my cruffler license.
A C&R is good to have. They only cost 30 bucks for 3 years. Send it in to midway and brownells and they'll give you a dealers account.
haspelbein
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Post by haspelbein »

Petrofergov wrote:
Many consider the turk mausers to be 'crude' which, among mausers crude is still pretty decent.

Yes, the turks are a bit nonstandard. They are a large ring mauser with small ring threads......at least thats the best explanation that's been offered. In reality, there isn't a truly 'nominal' thread for a turk mauser as there is variation among individual specimens. That's actually a plus. The fella who rebarreled my two projects took a large ring barrel that was short chambered and cut it to fit my receivers precisely. Of course, the same thing could be done with a barrel blank with a lot more work.
Yes, my Turk is a little crude. I had to seriously deburr the extractor to get the action to work properly. (Once I did, it worked very reliably, like all Mausers.) But the machining inside the receiver is somewhat crude.

Just out of curiosity: How much did you spend on the barrel, the rebarreling, and how do you like your conversion? (If I'm not asking too many questions.)
Don't shortchange the turks. Most of them started out in life as German manufactured Gewhers. They were shipped off to the ottoman empire by the thousands in the form of complete rifles, parts and equipment. VZ-24's are good too. They are actually czech made at a place called 'BRNO' (I can't think of the name right now).

Everybody has their favorite flavor of mauser. Most all the receivers make good rebarreling projects. The only one I was ever told to avoid were the chinese and I haven't even seen one of those.

Don't forget the intermediate length mausers. They are better suited to some calibers. These are the yugo flavored mausers...the 24/47's and the later manufactured M48's
Yes, my other Mauser is the M48. The only problem is: It doesn't need rebarreling. The original barrel still shoots quite nicely, and I'd hate to rip a nice specimen of an original rifle apart.
Also worthy of note are the Czeska Zbrovaska (sp) 98/22's. They are still quite cheap wholesale and most have pitted barrels externally under the wood and barrel bands. I grabbed a '5 fer' deal for 300 bucks from century. These are begging for a rebarrelling job. I gotta get started or I'll never get done before I cross the big river.
5 of them will definitely take some time. I guess you must love the Mauser action, and quite frankly I can't blame you for it. :wink:
A C&R is good to have. They only cost 30 bucks for 3 years. Send it in to midway and brownells and they'll give you a dealers account.
Yes, and besides, there are so many more C&R eligible firearms that interest me. What is your opinion of the CZ 52, by the way?
"A fear of weapons is a sign of retarded sexual and emotional maturity." Sigmund Freud, "General Introduction to Psychoanalysis"
Petrovich
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Post by Petrovich »

Yes, my Turk is a little crude. I had to seriously deburr the extractor to get the action to work properly. (Once I did, it worked very reliably, like all Mausers.) But the machining inside the receiver is somewhat crude.

Just out of curiosity: How much did you spend on the barrel, the rebarreling, and how do you like your conversion? (If I'm not asking too many questions.)
Sorry for waiting so long to respond. This thread got kinda buried and I rarely travel down this far on the page!

My two projects haven't made it to the firing point yet! The fellow who did my work is a man by the name of George Stringer. He lives in Kentucky. George had a heart attack shortly after he completed my work and had to retire. It's been so long I can't remember accurately who much I did pay. I supplied the barrels and the scope bases. He rethreaded the barrels, trued the threads on the receiver, faced the bolt, forged the bolt handle, finished reaming the chamber drilled and tapped the receiver...I think it was about 250 each.
Yes, my other Mauser is the M48. The only problem is: It doesn't need rebarreling. The original barrel still shoots quite nicely, and I'd hate to rip a nice specimen of an original rifle apart.
It's hard to find a trashed yugo mauser or even a 24/47. Keep looking though....a LOT of corrosive ammo is out there.
5 of them will definitely take some time. I guess you must love the Mauser action, and quite frankly I can't blame you for it. :wink:
Yep....first centerfire rifle I ever had was an Interarms .243. It was a FN sporting receiver. Nice gun and I still have it...I bought it in 1974.
.Yes, and besides, there are so many more C&R eligible firearms that interest me. What is your opinion of the CZ 52, by the way
Go ahead and grab one or two before they're gone. It's an interesting gun. It fires the 7.62x25 as you probably know...nearly identical to the mauser pistol cartridge. Until some modern pistols are chambered for this round it is destined to die a sudden death when the surplus dries up. Just a couple companies make new ammo...sellier and Bellot come to mind.

I learned of a procedure where you can take .223 brass, cut it down and resize it to make brass for the cartridge...works good too but it is a bit time consuming. You can also resize .32 cast bullets to .308 and use them for a bullet.

My CZ52's are remarkably accurate. It's a robust design, but as you've probaby heard the firing pins are brittle and prone to break if the gun is dry fired.

If you get one it probably won't be your favorite plinker but they are worth having for the price.

Another interesting feature of the gun is the breech delaying mechanism. It is a roller pin affair....I hear it was copied from the MG machine gun.

? [/quote]
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