Mr. Glock wrote:Do you wiggle the slide release while you try to push it out? It rides in a groove in the pin.
Brian D. wrote:Okay here's another one: Same part (pin that holds trigger in frame) but different semiautomatic handgun: The Browning Hi Power. Its removal is necessary on all the modern ones, circa 1980-something, if you want to get rid of the magazine disconnect "safety" feature**.
As time has gone by, Browning/FN must have started using huge presses, or the hammer of Thor, to get that pin into the frame during manufacture. Their lawyers must not want buyers to negate the mag disconnect, no matter how much better it makes the trigger pull. Removal of said pin is even tougher on the guns which have the EPOXY based black finish. After doing a handful of those over a decade or so, I have sold the trampoline, 16lb. sledge hammer, and 12 foot step ladder needed to accomplish the task. Super glue the punch pin to the proper spot, climb the ladder with sledge, jump off, hit punch with hammer, land on trampoline, bounce back to top of stepladder, repeat as many times as needed.
Okay, it's not quite that difficult, but..
**Some people don't want to negate the disconnect for fear of having that fact used against them after a defensive shooting incident, fine by me.
Brian D. wrote:**Some people don't want to negate the disconnect for fear of having that fact used against them after a defensive shooting incident, fine by me.
calvin56 wrote:Brian D. wrote:**Some people don't want to negate the disconnect for fear of having that fact used against them after a defensive shooting incident, fine by me.
An easier way is to cut exactly one coil off the spring, same effect, but all the original parts are still in place. A two pound BHP is just as crisp as a 1911. A few select shooters can tell the difference only because one is a straight pull, the other pivots.
Brian D. wrote:Mr. Glock wrote:Do you wiggle the slide release while you try to push it out? It rides in a groove in the pin.
Yes I tried that after thinking about where my smithin' hammer was, but before going to retrieve it. Consider mass production tolerances: A pin that came out .002" too big wouldn't be thrown away, the press at the factory would shove it right in. Even if some part of its channel happened to be a few thousandths on the small side.
But enough of my experience today, I wanna read some others on this general subject now.
Bruenor wrote:A guy at the club purchased a new AR15, we had to tap out one of the take-down pins with a tool. I've never run across take-down pins before that fit so tight you couldn't start it out by pressing it with your finger. Recommended he contact the manufacturer because that was definitely NOT normal.
Getting the barrel off the receiver of my Rem700 took a bit more leverage than expected. Fashioned a tool from some bar stock that was laying around the garage to gain a better grip and more leverage. That did the trick, and made things move.
So far Murphy hasn't reared his head on any of my projects, aside from make some parts more difficult to move than they should have been, but given a big enough hammer or enough leverage, still managed to get the job done.
gaptrick wrote:Avoid "reaming" with a 2 fluted drill bit... you'll end up with elongated holes....
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